Discussing Varnishes (Spray or Brush?) (Matte or Gloss?)

[misterwister2000]

Is there anyone here who uses glossy spray varnish to seal their completed Blood Bowl miniatures? I am certain that most (maybe all) of you use matte varnish. If you don't mind, could you tell me what brand you use? I know Citadel offers a spray can of matte varnish, but it seems a bit pricey. Is it worth it? The reason I'm asking is because I use an inexpensive spray varnish, but it puts a shine on the completed models. Plus, it takes quite a while to dry. Now, I don't think the gloss looks too terribly bad--it doesn't ruin the model per se, but I'm ready to explore other varnishes now that I'm completing a new team. Do you prefer spraying or brushing varnish on your models? Could you please tell me what varnish you believe is the best? Maybe provide some instructions on where I can get some? A Google search turned up a lot of different matte varnishes. Thanks!

[juck101]

ok my 2pc

Gloss varnish gives a very 'fake' feel to minatures. Most people find gloss horrible. I am one of the few people who dont mind it much but only for a purpose. Gloss is fantastic on plastic or chrome surfaces, and great for PVC look on black.

General use stuff try for a clear or opaque varnish. Current fav is the GW clear coat spray. Seams a nice finish with little change to the paint underneath.

One last consideration is matt varnish chips with a lot less force. gloss is tougher and will last a lot longer if you game on with the figs. Mostly my teams from 10years ago are nearly battered back to lead so no solution is perfect

[misterwister2000]

Even though my models have a glossy finish, perhaps not all is lost. I visited a number of miniature painting sites, and found information about varnishes. Some sites said that the world's best painters actually use several coats of gloss and then put a final coat of matte on to finish the model. This technique supposedly counteracts or masks the glossy sheen on the model, but creates a great barrier and keeps it well protected. Seem strange to you? I'd like to try it, but some of my models are already flocked. I also heard that applying varnish AFTER the flock will cause the grass or flock to gum up and look horrible. Almost everything I've read says that flocking the model is the absolutely last thing you should do. Although I think I've seen contradictory comments on here...

[ZanzerTem]

I use a crap ton of shiny and just a dash of matte. After the matte coat, there is NO SHINE AT ALL, yet the heavy layers of shiny protect the model well.

It's best to spray, dry, spray, dry, ect, in small doses. If you do it all in one shot (for the shiny) it will all drip to the bottom of the mini and the top of the mini will be less protected. And unfortunately, the top is the one you usually touch a lot.

[Stu]

If you've already flocked the bases, just use brush on matt varnish.

Check out the info section of http://www.steve-dean.co.uk/. He's a pro figure painter who apparently uses some sort of wood varnish to get a really matt finish.

edited to add:

I thought I saw Kevin Dallimore with the same stuff at Salute, so I did a quick check, and yes, he does.

http://www.wargamesfoundry.com/library/paint05.asp

This is his actual website btw.

http://www.kevindallimore.co.uk/

[juck101]

just remebered discussing with a friend who can paint better than most mortals. we both came to conculsion ANY varnish method wil age and after years a yellowing will occur. maybe best thing is just a light coat and retouch the models paint

[Khaine]

Gonna sound strange but Aqua net OK stop laughing. it's commonly used as a budget fixative for paints and as such is ideal for minatures as it preserves shading and the tones of the paint while giving it a substantial boost in abillity to hold the paint together. I have used it on a few miniatures and the only draw back is a slight tacky feel for about a week after that it looses this but retains the paint sticktoitvness..

[ZanzerTem]

just remebered discussing with a friend who can paint better than most mortals. we both came to conculsion ANY varnish method wil age and after years a yellowing will occur. maybe best thing is just a light coat and retouch the models paint

Typically by then it's time to repaint the models anyway

[Blammaham]

Years ago I painted several teams, and like people have said before, went with a HEAVY gloss and then a mat. What I found is that this made it more difficut to re touch those little knicks and dings that occur. All the figs that I painted those many years ago have already gone to the oven cleaner bath house. The gloss was probly too heavy and you could always see the chip.

What I do now is a little light spray of GW matte, real quick and real light, mostly hitting up the elevated areas. Then when your opponent uses your figs as dice back stop for 3 hours all it seems to ever ding is the hi light and that is the easiest part to repair. I also see people doing crazy things with their figs, like picking them up 5 at a time in a tight fist and then wondering why their figs are chipped. S.

[misterwister2000]

I guess I'm going to seek out a brush on Matte Varnish and cover the gloss varnish. This should remedy the problem. First, it SHOULD get rid of the gloss that I've decided I'm not very partial to anymore. Second, it will allow me to bypass gumming up the flock with a spray-on varnish. Third, it will give an added layer of protection on top of the barrier created by the gloss varnish. I don't have to worry about difficulty repairing damage because my models are well-taken care of. I would never, never, never hold a handful of models, or drop them on the floor, or bang them together. The only time my models take a beating is when a STR 5 Mummy lays into one of them and gets "DEFENDER DOWN" on the dice. Cripes! Thanks for your help. If anyone can suggest a good brush on matte varnish, please let me know. The stuff from Blackfriar looks awesome and appears to be the best, but it is really hard to use. Did you read Dean's directions? Good God! You have to keep it upside down in its can for a month before you use it.

[Deathwing]

Never experienced any problems with spraying over flock ot static grass myself. Actually it helps seal it in if anything. (I simply use several light coats of purity seal.)

[Thadrin]

Never experienced any problems with spraying over flock ot static grass myself. Actually it helps seal it in if anything. (I simply use several light coats of purity seal.)

Not Skull white?

[martynq]

I tend to finish painting, then seal with paint-on glossy varnish (which seems to be more protective than purity seal). Then I base the figures and then I spray with purity seal (which is matt and stops the previous shininess showing).

Martyn

[Indigo]

Said this before (do a search ) but Winsor & Newton Acrylic Matt Varnish is superb, lasts forever (i.e. value for money) and dries completely matt and rock hard - in laboratory tests * it was HARDER than ard coat.


* dropped two figures, each with a coat on and the ard coat one chipped.

[Flumox Fleebiter]

I use Testor's Dull Cote. It evens out the finish nicely and you can't even tell it was sprayed on. It also does a bang up job of securing the flocking without disturbing the look if it.

I have a little jar of Satin finish (forget the brand, something intended for model railroading) that I brush on some figs armor or other specific parts if I want a little gloss finish. I do this after the dull cote spray.