Varnish!
Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 6:10 pm
This comes up a lot and I get asked it a lot. This is a repost of something I originally put on the PP forums, a full rundown of how I varnish models. I'm reposting it here to make it easier for me to find and link to.
It is afterall an important stage, and it's a somewhat distressing stage as nothing will ruin a well painted and finished mini that you are very proud of and happy with than a bad coat of varnish.
I'll say now that with plastic models such a convoluted process isn't absolutely necessary, but with metal it really does protect your stuff.
There are lots of varnishes available, but for protection of gaming mini's, certainly of metal ones, nothing beats a gloss varnish.
For the best look afterwards the gloss can be covered with a matte varnish to get rid of the shine.
Gloss:
I use Wickes stuff (over here in the UK); clear, interior, water based, UV resistant polyurethane gloss for woodwork. It's white in the tin, but dries totally clear.
Brilliant stuff. It can, and should, be thinned with water (just enough to break the surface tension, so that it flows better) so that it goes on smoothly (though this extends the drying time, I always allow 24-36 hours to be certain its cured), it doesn't yellow, and it offers the best protection.
A good gloss will remain ever so slightly flexible and is very chip resistant, and that's what protects the paint work from harm.
Keep a good quality, quite large brush just for your paint on varnishes. And use clean water. Paint on gloss will find any paint residue in the brush and transfer it straight to the model, so it is important to have a brush just for this (use this brush for the matte as well).
Other brands are as good, so any will do, it's the qualities you are after, so just to reiterate:
Clear, interior gloss for woodwork, water based, UV resistant, polyurethane based.
DO NOT use a yellow oil based gloss, it is only natural that it will go yellow over time. Modern, white water based glosses do not and offer just as much protection.
Besides, oil based can react badly with metalic paint or certain inks, causing a chemical bond rather than mechanical, which means the paint will run into the varnish.
note:
Mechanical bond: the varnish sits on top of the paint and adheres to the rough surface. This is good.
Chemical bond: the varnish reacts with the paint, softening it and sinking into it. This is bad. Aerosols do this due to the propelants, which is why if you touch a mini before it is dry you get fingerprints in the paint and nasty smears.
Some varnishes do this naturally due to the carrier, so ALWAYS TEST FIRST if you are using a brand or type you haven't used before.
This in mind, test your gloss on something first. Certain carriers can be too closly similar to that used in the paint, so you get a mild chemical bond.
GW Ardcoat is best avoided for this very reason, it uses an identical carrier to that used in GW paint. A very cheaply produced product and prone to problems as a result.
Paint on matte:
I use Vallejo paint on matte varnish after I've done the base (I do the bases after the gloss, as it's very easy to remove mistakes from the gloss with a wet brush).
A very dilute coat of this comes out very matte, litterally daub it on very thin, like an ink wash, and is ideal for catching all the undercuts that aerosol varnishes will miss. After it's dry, check and go over any shiny bits. It dries quite quickly, about 30 mins.
It also does a good job of sealing the paint on the base.
You can forego this step, but that'll tend to cause you to over apply the aerosol matte, which can cause more problems.
Aerosol Matte:
Final stage, after the base rims are painted, I spray the model lightly with Army Painter matte (I don't use Testors, never have, dunno why, so I can't honestly comment on how good it is, but I can comment very positively on the AP stuff, and their primers which are equally brilliant). This gives a uniform look, and adds just enough protection to the bases to keep the front/rear arc lines in place.
Note also that the aerosol won't be forming a chemical bond with the gloss or the paint beneath that, only with the paint on matte, so it won't be effecting colours, though it will still kill the shine in metalics.
One way around this is to reaply the final hilights on metalic areas, or to carefully repaint them with the gloss.
Same goes for gems and such like, a quick coat of gloss on these brings them to life after the matte varnish has killed their shine.
Nasty White Dusty Sheen:
Finally, I'll share a secret to getting the finish just right; aerosol matte dries in the air, between the nozzle and the model. That means you get a build up of crystals on the model.
These then crumble under your fingers and create a nasty, white gritty look.
To avoid that, get a 1" brush and after the varnish is dry, about 30 mins to 1 hour, dust the model with the brush. All the crystals come away, the model looks much cleaner and less dusty, and the crystals won't eff up the finished thing.
Just make sure it is a clean and dry brush. Personally I have one just for this job.
Over time the matte varnishes will wear away as it isn't very tough, so keep an eye out for shiny patches appearing and don't be afraid to lightly reapply the aerosol matte.
Preparation:
One final thing though, all of this means nothing if the models aren't prepared properly. The best way to protect metal mini's from damage is at the preparation stage.
When prepping, get all the edges smooth and even to remove any ridges or overly sharpe edges, don't be afraid to run fine grade sand paper around edges to create a bit of a rough surface for the primer to adhere to Primer uses a mechanical bond, so obviously a slightly rougher surface gives more grip), and clean them thoroughly afterwards, to remove swarf, grease and mould release agent.
Spray primer the models, then cover any undercuts by hand, then spray primer again. A few light coats is better than one heavy one, as the layers form a more solid base that is less likely to chip or rub away.
Sounds like a huge amount of agro, but it works, and has worked for a long time, since painters used to use nasty, yellow oil based glosses wich turn brown in the sunlight, before the days of modern white water polyurethane glosses and UV protection (though if you smoke, nothing will stop your models turning yellow).
There are plenty of modern, time saving quick options to use instead, but I personally have no qualms about having no sympathy for anyone when their quick and lazy options don't do a very good job.
Varnish and prep is important, so it deserves the time to be done right.
Besides, WM armies are often small, so the time is well spent.
Hope that helps.
It is afterall an important stage, and it's a somewhat distressing stage as nothing will ruin a well painted and finished mini that you are very proud of and happy with than a bad coat of varnish.
I'll say now that with plastic models such a convoluted process isn't absolutely necessary, but with metal it really does protect your stuff.
There are lots of varnishes available, but for protection of gaming mini's, certainly of metal ones, nothing beats a gloss varnish.
For the best look afterwards the gloss can be covered with a matte varnish to get rid of the shine.
Gloss:
I use Wickes stuff (over here in the UK); clear, interior, water based, UV resistant polyurethane gloss for woodwork. It's white in the tin, but dries totally clear.
Brilliant stuff. It can, and should, be thinned with water (just enough to break the surface tension, so that it flows better) so that it goes on smoothly (though this extends the drying time, I always allow 24-36 hours to be certain its cured), it doesn't yellow, and it offers the best protection.
A good gloss will remain ever so slightly flexible and is very chip resistant, and that's what protects the paint work from harm.
Keep a good quality, quite large brush just for your paint on varnishes. And use clean water. Paint on gloss will find any paint residue in the brush and transfer it straight to the model, so it is important to have a brush just for this (use this brush for the matte as well).
Other brands are as good, so any will do, it's the qualities you are after, so just to reiterate:
Clear, interior gloss for woodwork, water based, UV resistant, polyurethane based.
DO NOT use a yellow oil based gloss, it is only natural that it will go yellow over time. Modern, white water based glosses do not and offer just as much protection.
Besides, oil based can react badly with metalic paint or certain inks, causing a chemical bond rather than mechanical, which means the paint will run into the varnish.
note:
Mechanical bond: the varnish sits on top of the paint and adheres to the rough surface. This is good.
Chemical bond: the varnish reacts with the paint, softening it and sinking into it. This is bad. Aerosols do this due to the propelants, which is why if you touch a mini before it is dry you get fingerprints in the paint and nasty smears.
Some varnishes do this naturally due to the carrier, so ALWAYS TEST FIRST if you are using a brand or type you haven't used before.
This in mind, test your gloss on something first. Certain carriers can be too closly similar to that used in the paint, so you get a mild chemical bond.
GW Ardcoat is best avoided for this very reason, it uses an identical carrier to that used in GW paint. A very cheaply produced product and prone to problems as a result.
Paint on matte:
I use Vallejo paint on matte varnish after I've done the base (I do the bases after the gloss, as it's very easy to remove mistakes from the gloss with a wet brush).
A very dilute coat of this comes out very matte, litterally daub it on very thin, like an ink wash, and is ideal for catching all the undercuts that aerosol varnishes will miss. After it's dry, check and go over any shiny bits. It dries quite quickly, about 30 mins.
It also does a good job of sealing the paint on the base.
You can forego this step, but that'll tend to cause you to over apply the aerosol matte, which can cause more problems.
Aerosol Matte:
Final stage, after the base rims are painted, I spray the model lightly with Army Painter matte (I don't use Testors, never have, dunno why, so I can't honestly comment on how good it is, but I can comment very positively on the AP stuff, and their primers which are equally brilliant). This gives a uniform look, and adds just enough protection to the bases to keep the front/rear arc lines in place.
Note also that the aerosol won't be forming a chemical bond with the gloss or the paint beneath that, only with the paint on matte, so it won't be effecting colours, though it will still kill the shine in metalics.
One way around this is to reaply the final hilights on metalic areas, or to carefully repaint them with the gloss.
Same goes for gems and such like, a quick coat of gloss on these brings them to life after the matte varnish has killed their shine.
Nasty White Dusty Sheen:
Finally, I'll share a secret to getting the finish just right; aerosol matte dries in the air, between the nozzle and the model. That means you get a build up of crystals on the model.
These then crumble under your fingers and create a nasty, white gritty look.
To avoid that, get a 1" brush and after the varnish is dry, about 30 mins to 1 hour, dust the model with the brush. All the crystals come away, the model looks much cleaner and less dusty, and the crystals won't eff up the finished thing.
Just make sure it is a clean and dry brush. Personally I have one just for this job.
Over time the matte varnishes will wear away as it isn't very tough, so keep an eye out for shiny patches appearing and don't be afraid to lightly reapply the aerosol matte.
Preparation:
One final thing though, all of this means nothing if the models aren't prepared properly. The best way to protect metal mini's from damage is at the preparation stage.
When prepping, get all the edges smooth and even to remove any ridges or overly sharpe edges, don't be afraid to run fine grade sand paper around edges to create a bit of a rough surface for the primer to adhere to Primer uses a mechanical bond, so obviously a slightly rougher surface gives more grip), and clean them thoroughly afterwards, to remove swarf, grease and mould release agent.
Spray primer the models, then cover any undercuts by hand, then spray primer again. A few light coats is better than one heavy one, as the layers form a more solid base that is less likely to chip or rub away.
Sounds like a huge amount of agro, but it works, and has worked for a long time, since painters used to use nasty, yellow oil based glosses wich turn brown in the sunlight, before the days of modern white water polyurethane glosses and UV protection (though if you smoke, nothing will stop your models turning yellow).
There are plenty of modern, time saving quick options to use instead, but I personally have no qualms about having no sympathy for anyone when their quick and lazy options don't do a very good job.
Varnish and prep is important, so it deserves the time to be done right.
Besides, WM armies are often small, so the time is well spent.
Hope that helps.
