Madsherman wrote:ah, ok.. they looked round to me in the other photo. I can see it now. I know that larger is a way to put in more details, but I must admit I respect keeping scale more... like computergames, if you have unlimited power like PC you can make everything as detailed as you want (more or less), but if you have to put it on a disc you have to prioritize which features you want to be nicer.
To an extent yes.
Here comes a bit of a wordy reply and it may seem like I am over explaining but its only because I am not sure how much you know about the process.
Its obviously easier to show definition in larger scales but not impossible in smaller scales with forethought.
I can make 10mm model with amazing detail. To do so I first need to decide that is the scale I want to work in. Then I make design choices that reflect the small size of the model. If I was to scale too much those design choices would look like flaws with edges being overly exaggerated, creases becoming comically big and proportions being unappealingly out of whack.
The same is true in reverse. If I decide to make a model at 35mm then the design choices are made to fit that scale....when you shrink it those design choices start losing the definition they had at the larger scale....creases in clothing become less noticable...facial expressions are lost ect.
I had made that human team with my desires in mind. As I said I like 35mm so used that scale to make my design choices. I then further made choices to make the blitzers larger than the linemen and the catchers smaller than the linemen (the linemen being the base scale). I wanted the team to have a heroic style scaling so went that route in design as well giving the players larger proportions. In the end all of these choices affect and are affected by the scale choice I made to start with. Now as I said, these can be scaled down and the definition loss is minimal up to about 32mm tall (approx 29mm heroic scale). Side by side you would notice it but alone you would have trouble seeing the difference. The most obvious areas this would be seen is in the creases in the pants and the face. The pants would smooth out and the face would lose most if not all the definition I have. Neither of these would change the model significantly as the face is mostly obscured by the helmet and face guard (which is not connected to the face by the way...there is a gap between it and the face...something you cant do with molds unless you make it multipart). While the pants do not have alot of definition to begin with as they are intended to look more like football tights than pants. I have done a test print in both the 28mm heroic and 32mm heroic (very rough scale estimates) with other models and found I prefer the 32mm ones (35mm tall) personally.
On the other hand the females I made....I decided I do not like female models in true heroic scale (they look too much like freakish body builders than women in heroic scale) so I made them in a hybrid style....slightly larger proportions....with the intent to have them at roughly 30mm scale. As I said I wanted to make the team using a caste society concept.....blitzer the warriors of the tribe, linemen regular tribe members, throwers the hunter and gather members and the catchers as youths who had not yet joined a caste. As a result I knew going in that with the linewomen as a base, the blitzers would be larger, the catcher smaller and the thrower being equal. This team was started 3 years ago and off and on I would work on it never having been happy. Anyway...I made design choices based on 30mm for thrower/line, 32 for blitzer and 28mm for catcher (these are scale not direct foot to top of head measurments). I ran into alot of problem due simply to the fact that I was designing for multiple scales in the same style (took me a while to realize that). What I mean is that while each model looked fine alone when next to one another the proportions and detail level was jarringly obvious between models. I just did not have the skill to make that idea a reality in those measurements. So I increased the scale to 30, 32 and 34 and designed based on those scales (meaning foot to eye measurement). The result was like night and day.... Whats more, now if I scale them down they do not seem out of place together as they did when I designed them smaller.
As you can see its less about the actually scale and more about the design choice of which scale to make for. Its true that larger scales will allow for smaller details to be obvious (true in both sculpted and 3d printed models) but with the right choices when making the model you can make them at almost any scale....
As I am still a novice so I tend to go bigger because it is that much easier to give a model proper detail levels than it is at smaller scales. I do try and push my skill to new levels though. One of the projects I am working on is a goblin team that is a bit away from the norm (no spoiler sorry) and a steampunk style robot team to act as an alternative undead (lots of trouble with this one...not as easy to do as I originally thought).
Anyway...thanks again for the post and I hope I didnt bore you with my long winded explanation of my process.
anyhoo, back on topic: I'd actually like to see a more sideview comparison on the 3rd ed player vs. your own human player. The pic you have is a bit blurry and from up high. 
