Regash wrote:I just browsed through those videos and I think the steps you too were:
- grey undercoat
- heavy drybrush with lighter grey
- light drybrush with even lighter grey
- base colors
- lighter drybrush
- lightest drybrush
- detailwork
- metal work
- quickshade
I now wonder, what you did the grey drybrush for.
And also, when Quickshade was presented first, the only put on very light base colors and then added the quickshade.
Isn't the quickshade basically covering most of the drybrushed transitions anyway?
Yeah them steps sound about right. Ok so to answer a few questions...
Answers not in order. I just posted now because the series is finished, I've tweeted a few times about this too or stuck it on Facebook as i was doing it. I thought the title of the video would make it obvious that there are more videos previous to this so if your reading this, firstly thank you and second if you didn't realise there were a whole series of these amature videos then just click on my You Tube channel and it should show you all of them.
The idea in the beginning was to document the whole process, although i lost some of the last footage of me doing the metal after applying the black and that video also cut halfway through due to running out of space/memory on my device and not realising. But you can get the idea. A friend of mine has already told me that the vids are too long and boring so if i ever do something like this again i could probably edit them better.
Apologies for this long ass answer, your doing well stay focused
Originally i was in too minds, with the grey. I'd just bought a grey undercoat/primer a rattle can and whilst i was there i picked up a new range of washes (which i use in the video) they are the Army Painter ones, i was going to dry brush everything grey and lighter grey and then just use the different coloured washes as if i was painting an ethereal army of the dead (but with more than one colour) i tried this quickly between vids but disliked it and washed it off.
I don't normally do the extra grey dry brush at the beginning your right Regash, i normally go straight from primer to my base coat then to highlight using dry brush and some details but it worked the same way, i actually like the extra contrast the lighter greys did as it helps pick out the detail and probably makes the base coats lighter too, like some kind of "undershading".
Ok so why dry brush and then dip. Another reason i showed the finished video first. The results are not bad, for tabletop standard (i like them anyway).
Dry brushing is messy, most pro painters don't us this technique these days from what I've seen, preferring to blend and layer or whatever (use a magic wand) and most people who dip can't do this instead they paint on a base coat then dip to get the shade, it can look a little flat.
The trick is with quick shade it covers up most of the mess, it blends (not pro painter blends) or mixes the colours together so if you highlight up from darker shades gradually up to lighter ones with less and less paint then cover with quick shade it covers the mess and dose the hard work for you. This means i can use that giant brush and cover lots of miniature at one time, i don't need to have a steady hand, as long as i am dry brushing correctly.
After the dip/quick shade then i matt varnish using spray and then paint on the other one in any bits the spray missed.
Also quickshade makes the regular builders sand i used on the bases look good, notice i didn't paint that.
All this is good for protecting the minis too, which is good for playing Blood Bowl
Not sure now if I've answered the questions or completely gone off track but thanks for the interest. I will try answer any other questions.
